Ahimsa silk

Did you know that 15 silkworms are killed to produce 1 gram of silk? A silk sari with all its elegance and shimmer comes at a price of 50,000 silk worms.

While you do hear animal rights groups protesting the use of leather products, we seldom hear a voice against the manner in which silk is produced.

A silky touch / Photo credit: Outlook

One little known voice of compassion comes from Hyderabad, where Kusuma Rajaiah � after years of research � now produces silk without killing the worms.

A senior technical officer with APCO (Andhra Pradesh Handloom Weaver�s Cooperative Society), Kusuma�s search for eco-friendly and humane silk dates back to the �90s when Janaki Venkataraman, wife of former president R. Venkataraman, asked for a silk sari that did not involve the killing of worms on her visit to APCO. The same request cropped up in 2000, when Amala Akkineni, actress/dancer and animal activist, visited APCO.

Silk comes from the cocoons of the silk worm (bombyx mori). In the silk industry, cocoons are killed by steaming or dropping them into boiling water when they are ten days old, before they metamorphose into a moth.

The silk is believed to be the finest at this stage. This is preferred because when the cocoons open naturally at one end, to release the moth, the continuity of the fibre is lost. But maybe not, thought Kusuma.

He purchases cocoons from mulberry farms in Chittoor district. The yellow coloured cocoons are reared in large cane baskets at his residence in Hyderabad.

The moths emerge after 8-10 days, piercing the cocoon at one end. "The adult moths have a short life span of four days.

During this time they mate and die naturally, "Kusuma explains.
The pierced cocoons are spun into yarn. This is then woven into fabrics. Weavers of Nalgonda and Ananthpur district of Andhra Pradesh produce dhotis while fabrics, including saris, are woven by the weavers of Karimnagar district.

"All my products are done on handlooms and benefits several weaver families," says Kusuma. Inspired by Mahatma Gandhi, he calls this silk ahimsa (non-violent). While ahimsa silk may lack the shine of regular silk, it is comfortable to wear. It�s also wrinkle-free and has a better fall.

Kusuma received the patent for the eco-friendly silk last year. The new silk is favoured by the likes of Sheila Dixit, Chief Minister of Delhi and Maneka Gandhi, animal rights activist. If the rustle of silk still distracts you, it�s time you met Kusuma Rajaiah.

Source: Outlook

User comments

"Rajaiya - a true hero"

Author:

Time: 18.03.2008 17:49

Comment: I met Rajiya in Hyderabad in June 2007. when I read about him in a newspaper I decided that I would buy my wedding sarees from him. I was to get married in a few months. With great difficulty I found his phone number. All the articles online had only written about him and his work, but none ever gave me a direct contact number. That's infact what i'd first like to share with you.

Rajaiya's hyderabad mobile number is: 9822376006.

He is one of the most dedicated people I've seen. In a small cozy home near Koti in Hyderabad, Rajaiya welcomed me and my family to his home. He explained how his silk is made. He made us watch a video that shows how normal silk is made as opposed to his ahimsa silk. "These days every shop has an ahimsa silk. It has become like a fashion statement, but no one knows that I'm the only one who invented it and has a patent for it." He laughs. Such a simple man, I ask him why he doesn't sue them then. He responds "If I got down to doing that, I'd be spending the rest of my life trying to catch all the people trying to make an imitation of this... Its a waste of time. I'd rather carry on with my work."

There was a limited selection. I finally chose 2 sarees. One a lovely red with a white and red pochampalli border, and another grand yellow saree with a beige zaree border, which i wore for my engagement ceremony. The colors are all soft and toned down. You won't find the rich grand look that a kanchi silk saree offers. But this feels softer... friendlier... and after watching the videos you feel as if 50,000 silk worms became moths and flew beautifully... to live a free life. Ahimsa silk is truly something else. The best part is Rajaiya can make you sarees in colors and combinations you want! He just needs more time. The cost is also not greatly different compared to a silk saree... I spend 4,500 for each saree. But this is definitely worth it. After all you're spending on a beautiful woven cloth to drape yourself... and also for the life of 50,000 free beings!